#28 Rysy, Poland High Point

Back from our Eastern Europe adventure and reporting on the third high point in three countries reached: Rysy - at 2,499 m / 8,199 feet, the highest peak in Poland. After a long but rewarding day on Gerlach we refueled with some traditional Slovakian food (and Czech beer) and headed west. As the crow flies over the High Tatras the summit of Rysy is less than three miles from the summit of Gerlach, however the best access point to the route on the Slovak side is near the ski resort town of Štrbské Pleso. From there we parked our car and hiked a little more than an hour to reach the Horsky Hotel at Popradské Pleso, set in a picture perfect scene overlooking a stunning alpine lake. 

Views along the hike to Popradské Pleso

Accommodations for two nights at Horsky Hotel at 4,900 feet

Great views of the lake and Fall colors from our room

Fortunately the weather improved for us and the forecast rain/snow and 30 mph winds did not materialize. So we left our simple but comfortable room shortly after 7:00 the next morning and made our way up the scenic trail along the valley floor. Denise endured the rocky terrain and persevered despite having tremendous ankle pain from a crampon spike scrape inflicted while climbing Gerlach two days prior. We weren't sure if she could manage the extreme discomfort throughout another long day of climbing, but her strong Polish genes and mindset from her dad's side prevailed on this Poland high point. We carefully navigated the steeper snow covered slopes high up, and appreciated the panoramas that were revealed at the ridge delineating the Slovakia / Poland border. It was less than an hour later that we found ourselves at the summit of Poland's highest peak and now our 28th country high point raising the Challenged Athletes Foundation banner. 

Combination Slovak humor and safety warning

Summit of Rysy, Poland high point on Oct. 16, 2022

...until the next adventure, all the best!

-Paul & Denise

#27 Gerlach, Slovakia High Point

Summit of Gerlach, 2,655m / 8,709 feet Oct. 14, 2022

The High Tatras aren't as high as many mountain ranges around the world but they are certainly impressive and attract a fair number of technical climbers from around Europe. Gerlachovsky Štít is the highest in the range and rising up more than 6,000 feet above the valley floor, Gerlach is an imposing sight.

It is a requirement of the National Park to climb Gerlach with a certified guide and we were happy to do so after learning that the route high up is not marked and has some tricky exposed sections. In addition, an early season snowstorm dropped over 6 feet of snow on the mountain a week before our planned ascent, which we didn't believe until after looking at the Instagram page of our guide kuro.guide.

With the benefit of Kuro's firsthand knowledge of the conditions we came fully equipped with crampons, ice axes, climbing harnesses and helmets - and we put all of it to good use. 

Sliezsky Dom hotel, our home for 2 nights at 1,670m / 5,479 feet

Nice views on the approach hike with guide Kuro leading the way

The three of us started out from the Sliezsky Dom hotel around 7:45, and after 3,200 vertical feet of climbing we reached the top just before noon. We had the summit entirely to ourselves to enjoy the beautiful views, a snack, short rest and even reading a good book! The descent took us a little over 4 hours, getting us safely back to the trailhead and the very comfortable Sliezsky Dom less than 9 hours after we began. For the most part the weather cooperated nicely for us and the recent snow had consolidated making for stable conditions. I'll let the pictures and videos tell the rest of the story from an exciting climb of our 27th country high point!

Before I do I'll add an interesting fact about Gerlach. The mountain has the unusual distinction of being the highest peak in more countries than any other mountain. Due to the changing borders over time, since World War I it has been the highest point in Austria-Hungary, Czechoslovakia, Poland, the Czech and Slovak Socialist Republic, and then the Czech and Slovak Federated Republic, and since 1993 the highest point in Slovakia. 

Taking a short break to read Steps to the Summit 😉

"Hungary" for High Points

Our quest continues to explore new countries and climb their highest peaks. This trip includes three countries and if successful three more high points adding to our 25th country high point of Portugal's Mt. Pico reached two months ago. We are also keeping a tally of countries we have visited in our lifetimes and although Denise has a few more than me, Hungary marks my 50th country. 

Budapest Parliament Building taken on Danube River cocktail cruise

After two days of soaking in the beautiful and historical sights of Buda (western part of the city) and Pest (eastern side of the Danube) we soaked in the soothing mineral waters of the Széchenyi thermal bath which is the largest medicinal bath in Europe and a famous Budapest landmark. 

Széchenyi thermal bath in Budapest: the largest medicinal bath in Europe 

The next morning we headed northeast towards the Mátra Mountains and Hungary's highest point Kékestetö aka Kekes. At only 3,327 feet above sea level with a paved road leading almost all the way to the top, we knew this high point would hardly seem like much of an accomplishment. So we decided to park the car at the bottom of the road and hiked up to the top to make ourselves feel a little better about earning this one. It also helped us stretch our legs and along with an overnight in the quaint town of Eger, it broke up the drive north across the border into Slovakia and on to the "real" mountains the High Tatras. 

Hiking up the ski slopes of Kekes, one of the few ski areas in Hungary

Kekes, highest point in Hungary at 3,327 feet

 

Underwater Seamount "Summit"

Princess Alice Bank is a very special place on our planet, difficult to reach but amazing rewards for those lucky enough to get there.  In the middle of the Atlantic, 45 nautical miles offshore from the nearest island, this underwater seamount rises up from over 6,000 feet deep to its highest point only 115 feet from the ocean surface.  This is where we dropped anchor, right on its "summit", then had a briefing by our dive master and donned our SCUBA gear. 

During a short period of time every summer, large groups of Mobula rays and Mantas converge upon this area to feed as it attracts lots of other big fish including large tunas, jacks and barracudas.  Thanks again to Jonathan and Melissa for getting married in Portugal and for giving us an excuse to go to the Azores to climb Mt. Pico, and to be on Pico Island at the perfect time of year to witness this sensation. 

Denise and I clipped onto a weighted descent line for safety as the strong open ocean currents can easily sweep you out into the oblivion.  It wasn't long until our first visitors came gracefully "flying" by to check us out and play in our bubbles.  We counted 16 Mobulas (also known as Devil Fish) on our very first dive.  The wingspan on these beautiful creatures was at least 12 feet across on some of the larger ones and they seemed even bigger when swimming in the water next to them.  I was pleased to capture some great pics and video of this remarkable experience on my GoPro Hero 8, and hope you enjoy them as well!  

 

Video of me shooting the prior video of the single Mobula from underneath  

At Pico Sport dive shop in Madalena before doing two "checkout" shore dives the day prior

4:07 AM on Aug. 15 boarding the Blue Bay for a slow but steady 5+ hour journey to the Bank

Dinner and view from our Airbnb above the town of São Roque, Pico Island