Stormy Nights on Huascaran

Greetings from Huascaran Camp 1 at 16,800 feet where we are huddled in our tent as the wind and snow blows all around us outside. This is our second stormy night on the mountain but we are managing to stay happy, warm, and relatively dry.  We left Base Camp Thursday and had about two hours of somewhat technical "bouldering" with some exposed sections, until we reached Morraine Camp at ~15,500 feet. It was a matter of moments after we set up our tent, that it began to rain, then sleet, then snow. 

Fortunately the morning brought clear skies for our continued upward march to Camp 1.  The majority of the climb was on the glacier and we travelled roped together with our guide Nacho who was vigilant to avoid any dangerous crevasses. We arrived at Camp 1 around 3 pm and like clockwork the dark clouds moved in and it began to snow again. 

We have a rest day and one more night scheduled here at C1 to adjust to the altitude of nearly 17,000 feet, and then we will make our way up and through the "Canaletta." This is one of the more dangerous parts of the route, similar to a mini version of Everest's Khumbu Icefall with seracs hanging above that could come crashing down without notice. However, Nacho and one of the other guides we spoke with felt the Canaletta looked ok this season, but we will be safe and of anything looks too risky we will turn back. Until next time...
Hasta la Vista,
Pablo y Denise